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Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity

Received: 13 March 2021    Accepted: 1 April 2021    Published: 12 April 2021
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Abstract

The study explores how women in military uniforms maintained their femininity during the Second World War. It considers the uniforms that women belonging to the Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS), the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS), and the Women's Auxiliary Air Force (WAAC) wore. Previous research on women's military uniforms during the war has been done from above: why the authority did not allow women to wear trousers and how the government tried to control their uniform. It is necessary to explore women's military uniform from below as well as from above: how women themselves think of their uniforms, what feelings and mentalities to their uniforms they had and how women in military uniform tried to retain their femininity even in the war. This study mainly uses advertisements in the magazine The Woman, read by women in military service even during the war. The study finds that although servicewomen were provided with skirts rather than trousers and several other ‘feminine’ clothing such as rayon knickers, boned corsets, and lisle stocking, the basic uniform of the women's services was similar in style to that of their male 'parent' forces. As the war continued, the work clothing of servicewomen became more 'masculine'. WRNS members, for instance, wore 'bell-bottoms’. However, as some servicewomen shortened their skirts to conform to a fashionable length, they tried to retain their femininity by adapting their uniform to their tastes. Many advertisements for the promotion of selling parts of uniform such as boned corset, and the encouragement of using hair salon, appeared in magazines. In them, for example, camp hairdressers introduced the hairstyle suitable for service caps. These advertisements probably helped women keep their femininity. As women in the same uniform were very proud of belonging to the war service, their ideal was a woman who balanced military duty with feminine beauty and maintained both ladylike quality and a sense of discipline.

Published in American Journal of Art and Design (Volume 6, Issue 1)
DOI 10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14
Page(s) 26-37
Creative Commons

This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, provided the original work is properly cited.

Copyright

Copyright © The Author(s), 2021. Published by Science Publishing Group

Keywords

Uniform, WRNS, ATS, WAAC, Femininity

References
[1] Elizabeth Crosthwait, “The Girl Behind the Man Behind the Gun: The Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps, 1914-18’, in L. Davidoff and B. Westover (eds.), Our Work, Our Lives, Our Words, Totowa, New Jersey: Barnes & Noble Books, 1986, p. 163.
[2] Janet S. K. Watson, “Khaki Girls, VADs, and Tommy’s Sisters: Gender and Class in First World War Britain,” International History Review, XIX, 1 (February 1997), pp. 41-42.
[3] Tessa Stone, “Creating a (Gendered?) Military Identity: The Women’s Auxiliary Air Force in Great Britain in the Second World War,” Women’s History Review, 8: 4 (1999), pp. 615-616.
[4] Pat Kirkham, “Fashioning the Feminine: Dress, Appearance and Femininity in Wartime Britain,” in C. Gledhill and G. Swanson (eds.), Nationalising Femininity: Culture, Sexuality and British Cinema in the Second World War, Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1996, p. 155.
[5] Jeremy A. Crang, Sisters in Arms: Women in the British Armed Forces during the Second World War, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2020, p. 3, 32, 44-47, 112-115, 148-150, 230-233, 280.
[6] “Woman to Woman”, The Woman (11th July, 1942), p. 3.
[7] “You set the Styles Today”, The Woman, (31st July, 1941), p. 7.
[8] “Wrens Waistcoat!”, The Woman, (21st October, 1944), p. 20.
[9] “Smart Exchanges”, The Woman (14th August., 1943), p. 6.
[10] ‘The Women’s Royal Naval Service,” Advertisement, The Woman (11th September, 1943), p. 23.
[11] “Woman War Service Bureau: Wrens on board!”, The Woman (29th July, 1943), p. 14.
[12] Vonla McBride, Never at Sea: Life in the WRNS, Reading: Educational Explorers Limited, 1966, p. 19, 25.
[13] Martin Brayley and Richard Ingram, eds., World War II: British Women’s Uniforms, In Colour Photographs, London: The Crowood Press Ltd., 2007, p. 15.
[14] “Woman War Service Bureau,” The Woman (7th November, 1942), p. 10.
[15] “Tuck These Under Your Cap,” The Woman, (29th November, 1941), p. 7.
[16] J. Summers, Fashion on the Ration: Style in the Second World War, London: Profile Books, 2016, pp. 44-45.
[17] Anne De Courcy, Debs at War 1939-45: How Wartime Changed Their Lives, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 2005, p. 205.
[18] C. Harris, Women at War in Uniform 1939-1945, Stroud: Sutton Publishing, 2003, p. 91.
[19] https://www.pinterest.jp/pin/44191640070709025/ [accessed: 29/MAY/2020].
[20] https://www.pinterest.jp/pin/456974693431918436/ [accessed: 29/MAY/2020].
[21] https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30092521 [accessed: 29/MAY/2020].
[22] “Woman’s War Service Bureau: From Civvies to Khaki,” The Woman (14th February, 1941), p. 11.
[23] “Woman to Woman,” The Woman (8th August, 1942), p. 3.
[24] “What they do and what they wear: The Auxiliary Territorial Service,” Advertisement, The Woman (29th March, 1943), p. 2.
[25] Front page, The Woman (16th January, 1943), p. 1.
[26] “HATS off to the A. T. S.” Advertisement, The Woman (25th November, 1939), p. 44.
[27] “Where’s my BOURNVILLE COCOA?” The Woman (28th May 1943), p. 2.
[28] “Solidox,” The Woman (23th September, 1943), p. 24.
[29] “Why yes… for YOU especially!” Advertisement, The Woman (21st October, 1939), p. 3.
[30] “For YOU… Spirella is a ‘UNIFORM’ demand,” Advertisement, The Woman (3rd November, 1939), p. 3.
[31] “War-Time Corset,” Picture Post (2nd March, 1940), p. 26.
[32] “Beauty Kit Bag,” The Woman (28th October, 1939), p. 21.
[33] “How to Look Younger in Uniform,” Advertisement, The Woman (24th Feburary, 1940), p. 34.
[34] Sandra Duncan, WW2 People's War, https://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/internet/entries/f7126d19-2afa-3231-9c4e-0f7198c468ab [accessed: 28/MARCH/2021].
[35] Pat Kirkham, ‘Beauty and Duty: Keeping the (Home) Front’, in P. Kirkham and D. Thoms, (eds.), War Culture: Social Change and Changing Experience in World War Two London: Lawrence and Wishart, 1995, pp. 24-25.
[36] Edith Ridley Baker, W. A. A. F. Adventure, London: Lonsdale, 1946, p. 7.
[37] Wadge D. Collette, Women in Uniform, London: Sampson Low, Marston, 1946, p. 172.
[38] “What they do and what they wear…: Women’s Auxiliary Air Force,” Advertisement, The Woman (3rd July, 1943), p. 16.
[39] Beryl E. Escott, Women in Air Force Blue: The Story of Women in the Royal Air Force from 1918 to the Present Day, Wellingborough: Patrick Stephens, 1989, p. 100-101.
[40] “Join the WAAF,” Advertisement, The Woman (22nd Feburary, 1941), p. 24.
[41] “Woman’s War Service Bureau: The Girls Behind the Planes,” The Woman (21st June, 1941), p. 9.
[42] “Helen Temple’s Beauty Parlour: She has the Beauty Answers,” The Woman (12th September, 1942), p. 15.
[43] “Women at War. No. 1: I’m a rookie in the WAAF,” The Woman (September, 1942), p. 7.
[44] “Helen Temple’s Beauty Parlour: Making her a Plus Girl,” The Woman (19th October, 1942), p. 11.
[45] Peggy Scott, They Made Invasion Possible, London: Hutchinson, 1944, p. 70.
[46] Pat Kirkham, ‘Keeping Up Home Front Morale: “Beauty and Duty” in Wartime Britain’, in J. M. Atkins, (ed.), Wearing Propaganda: Textiles on the Home Front in Japan, Britain, and the United States, 1931-1945, New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2005, p. 216.
[47] M. G. Pushman, We All Wore Blue, London; Robson Books, 1944, p. 143.
[48] “Woman to Woman,” The Woman (27th April, 1946), p. 3.
[49] “Once They were Service Shirts!” The Woman (12th January, 1946), p. 8.
[50] “New uniforms for WRAF,” The Times (12 Feb. 1954).
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    Miku Hirata. (2021). Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity. American Journal of Art and Design, 6(1), 26-37. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14

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    Miku Hirata. Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity. Am. J. Art Des. 2021, 6(1), 26-37. doi: 10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14

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    AMA Style

    Miku Hirata. Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity. Am J Art Des. 2021;6(1):26-37. doi: 10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14

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  • @article{10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14,
      author = {Miku Hirata},
      title = {Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity},
      journal = {American Journal of Art and Design},
      volume = {6},
      number = {1},
      pages = {26-37},
      doi = {10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14},
      url = {https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ajad.20210601.14},
      eprint = {https://article.sciencepublishinggroup.com/pdf/10.11648.j.ajad.20210601.14},
      abstract = {The study explores how women in military uniforms maintained their femininity during the Second World War. It considers the uniforms that women belonging to the Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS), the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS), and the Women's Auxiliary Air Force (WAAC) wore. Previous research on women's military uniforms during the war has been done from above: why the authority did not allow women to wear trousers and how the government tried to control their uniform. It is necessary to explore women's military uniform from below as well as from above: how women themselves think of their uniforms, what feelings and mentalities to their uniforms they had and how women in military uniform tried to retain their femininity even in the war. This study mainly uses advertisements in the magazine The Woman, read by women in military service even during the war. The study finds that although servicewomen were provided with skirts rather than trousers and several other ‘feminine’ clothing such as rayon knickers, boned corsets, and lisle stocking, the basic uniform of the women's services was similar in style to that of their male 'parent' forces. As the war continued, the work clothing of servicewomen became more 'masculine'. WRNS members, for instance, wore 'bell-bottoms’. However, as some servicewomen shortened their skirts to conform to a fashionable length, they tried to retain their femininity by adapting their uniform to their tastes. Many advertisements for the promotion of selling parts of uniform such as boned corset, and the encouragement of using hair salon, appeared in magazines. In them, for example, camp hairdressers introduced the hairstyle suitable for service caps. These advertisements probably helped women keep their femininity. As women in the same uniform were very proud of belonging to the war service, their ideal was a woman who balanced military duty with feminine beauty and maintained both ladylike quality and a sense of discipline.},
     year = {2021}
    }
    

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    T1  - Women’s Military Uniform During the Second World War: How Women Maintained Their Femininity
    AU  - Miku Hirata
    Y1  - 2021/04/12
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    AB  - The study explores how women in military uniforms maintained their femininity during the Second World War. It considers the uniforms that women belonging to the Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS), the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS), and the Women's Auxiliary Air Force (WAAC) wore. Previous research on women's military uniforms during the war has been done from above: why the authority did not allow women to wear trousers and how the government tried to control their uniform. It is necessary to explore women's military uniform from below as well as from above: how women themselves think of their uniforms, what feelings and mentalities to their uniforms they had and how women in military uniform tried to retain their femininity even in the war. This study mainly uses advertisements in the magazine The Woman, read by women in military service even during the war. The study finds that although servicewomen were provided with skirts rather than trousers and several other ‘feminine’ clothing such as rayon knickers, boned corsets, and lisle stocking, the basic uniform of the women's services was similar in style to that of their male 'parent' forces. As the war continued, the work clothing of servicewomen became more 'masculine'. WRNS members, for instance, wore 'bell-bottoms’. However, as some servicewomen shortened their skirts to conform to a fashionable length, they tried to retain their femininity by adapting their uniform to their tastes. Many advertisements for the promotion of selling parts of uniform such as boned corset, and the encouragement of using hair salon, appeared in magazines. In them, for example, camp hairdressers introduced the hairstyle suitable for service caps. These advertisements probably helped women keep their femininity. As women in the same uniform were very proud of belonging to the war service, their ideal was a woman who balanced military duty with feminine beauty and maintained both ladylike quality and a sense of discipline.
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Author Information
  • Graduate School of Human Sciences and Design, Japan Women's University, Tokyo, Japan

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